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Blue screen
hey,
still trying to figure out the test. meantime got this for you: Event Type: Error Event Source: Service Control Manager Event Category: None Event ID: 7023 Date: 10/11/2005 Time: 1:13:40 PM User: N/A Computer: DS2-B6289F04A3F Description: The Human Interface Device Access service terminated with the following error: The specified module could not be found. For more information, see Help and Support Center at go.microsoft.com/fwlink/events.asp. Back to top |
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Event Type: Error
Event Source: Service Control Manager Event Category: None Event ID: 7000 Date: 10/11/2005 Time: 1:13:40 PM User: N/A Computer: DS2-B6289F04A3F Description: The Koli2dvwapdp service failed to start due to the following error: The filename, directory name, or volume label syntax is incorrect. For more information, see Help and Support Center at ... Back to top |
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Blue screen occured immediatley after opening a bunch of MP3s.
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Unfortunately, that particular error message is very generic, it means either a system or program file is missing, or that there is a hardware issue. Microsoft eventid error messages can be very unhelpful, but in this case, I'd guess that there's a hardware problem, when you're opening a bunch of mp3s, the system probably fills up its memory, starts writing really quickly to the windows swap file, page file, everything is full, or the hard drive is defective, or the memory is defective, and the system freezes.
If you open up the task manager [ ctrl+alt+delete -> task manager, performance] you can see how much resource consumption there is, if all the memory is used etc. If it fails when the memory maxes out it might be bad memory, though I kind of doubt it to be honest, unless you handled it wrong at some point. If you swap memory sticks, then do the same thing, and it blue screens again, it's very unlikely that it's the memory. Check your page file size and settings before you do anything else, with the number of techs who've looked at this box, there's no telling what they've done to it. Run the hard drive test, there's no point in thinking about this anymore until you test the drive. If it has errors, you've probably found the problem, you'll have to reinstall. If swapping memory sticks solves the problem, you've also found the error, bad memory. If the windows page file size was too small, or is located somewhere other than you main windows drive, you've found the problem. But you have to test these three things, do the hard drive test now though. Oh, some really basic stuff too, check your c: or windows partition, in windows explorer, and make sure it's not full. Partitions need to be about 80% full at most, with some free space to work with. If they have less than 20% free space stuff starts failing, the hard disk has to work really hard, and then will fail eventually because it always has to be rearranging data to shove it in a tight spot. Back to top |
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Sorry abotu the scatterd thred:
Burned th eboot disk and got to DOS startup menu. Im not sure how to navigate form here. Heres what I see: 1. SCSI and ATA 2. ATA only choosing SCSI and ATA, next screen says 1. For adaptec 2. For LSI 320 COntroller 3 For Tekram & Symbios Controllers 4. For ATTO 320 Controller What is all this referring to? More basic stuff I dont know about. Can you walk me through this part? Partition (c: - for windows) Used: 14.6 G Free 4.86 (d): Used: 63.4G Free 28.7G Back to top |
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Your free space is adequate, so that's not the problem, good.
You want ATA option, not SCSI. When you boot up and select test ATA [ata is what you have currently, IDE = ATA. SCSI sometimes can refer to SATA, but usually refers to actual SCSI hard drives, which you don't have, they are hyper fast, hyper expensive, that's not you. Back to top |
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No problems
Hitachi test turned up no errors in the quick test or the advanced test. 0X00 for both.
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Oh, OK, now I see why nobody has been able to figure this issue out.
This is why you don't want to go buying random stuff to fix things by the way. This may indeed be a motherboard issue in that case, or some other hardware thing. How much page file/swap memory is assigned? At this point it gets very difficult. Basically, you have to find out which component is failing. Not fun. The standard way is to remove all but the most critical hardware, then run the box to see if it crashes, then add in the hard ware piece by piece until you've localized the problem. One very subtle thing I've found is that the hard drive data cable can be slightly bad, but not bad enough to fail any test. If you have another 80 wire flat cable I'd swap it for the one that's currently connecting your hard drive. Other things I'd check are if the drives are correctly set to run off udma mode, sometimes windows will decide that they are pio mode, which will make the system run very badly. To see this: control panel -> system -> hardware tab -> click 'device manager' -> open 'IDE ATAPI controllers' -> double click on each, there should be either one or two depending on your motherboard. Check to see that the hard drive channel, should be channel 0, device 1, is running in udma mode, should be 6. Definitely try swapping your memory sticks now, then see if it still crashes with your kingston memory stick. This is definitely a head scratcher, the solution is in the red error codes, but there are so many variables involved with those that it's very difficult to pinpoint them. Please post the full error code for the last 2 days or so, all red flags, each one once, but let me know how many times it appeared, and roughly when and why. One of those is telling us exactly which piece of hardware/drivers/software is failing or defective, the trick is to figure out which one. Recently I had / have this issue with a client, we went through the error codes, same vagueness, but finally I realized that the specific file mentioned was the networking card driver. I would also go through all the ! information codes to see if you can find the same file/application shorthand mentioned, that can help narrow it down. Possible problems at this point You have several possibilities, the multiple Windows installs points away from any actual windows/virus/spyware problem, but doesn't exclude it, since you did in fact have viruses on your system, which I assume you've gotten rid of now. If you have, and issues still persist, that's probably not the problem. In order of severity, first is worst:
Problem with all these is that each is about equally likely, and testing each in turn isn't fun. I can see why you're completely fed up with this process. This is by the way why I no longer buy systems built by techs, each of the above steps becomes not only possible, but likely. Throw in a bad memory stick that sort of works, reuse old hard drive connection cable, dump a buggy mobo, be sloppy in heatsink installation on processor, etc... Building a good box takes between 10 and 20 hours if you do it properly, and there's no way you can make money doing that unless you work really fast and don't test stuff adequately. That's why I no longer do that kind of work for money, except in very rare instances where I get paid by the hour, for clients that will not question the value of the time I spend. Back to top |
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ey there,
Yeah, this is definitely one of those stumpers. let me try and rule some more stuff out for you: First of all, this was built by a good friend who chose good parts to the best of his and my knowledge, no hand me downs. He, by the way, has been saying form the get go that I should just upgrade and see what happens. he was against the new Power supply. Ive heard of bad house power as a possibility, but i have moved several times in the last few years- though the reboots have been the worst here on Potrero Hill by far. I use a surge protector but not a backup. Definitely using NTFS (But I think that these kinds of details are the really good questions to ask- SOMETHIGN is amiss) I don't overclock ever. But i do run a Radeon 9700, play games on very high settings, and use bulky graphics programs like Illustrator, etc. My fan is a lotus design, meaning the fan is not flush with the heat sync, it hovers over it. Its well rated but it has always concerned me. I am not running hot either, but perhaps I'm getting false reading from the BIOS? Drives/UDMA mode: (One device) General Tab: DE ATA/ATAPI controllers PCI bus 0, device 9, function 0 Primary Channel: Transfer Mode is set to "let BIOS select transfer mode, enable write caching" File swap memory: set to 1534MB, set for program priority. If I remove the video card will i be able to use Windows at all? Id like to test that- I don't remember If I had probs in the weeks between completing the box and buying the Radeon 9700. I got a loaner stick of RAM so i can test that today. heres what Corsair says about my RAM settings: "Please set the Dim Voltage to 2.7X volts (+.2 Volts W/Giga-Byte) and then set the timings manually to the tested settings for the specific module you have, XMS2700C2 Cass 2-3-3-6 for example or if you have Value Select "BY SPD" and then test the module/'s one at a time with www.memtest.org!" At this point Id be stoked to find out it was the motherboard and just buy a new one, however, purchasing stuff hasn't seemed to help me so far. I also need to advance RMA my Thermaltake power supply ASAP. Im going to ask them for a better product. Any suggestions? I wish I had my Antec back... Copying and pasting all this into text document because Im afraid of it rebooting any second! Let me know if I missed anything. Error codes to follow. Back to top |
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Your friend made it, that's good, that's the way to go, a friend will take the necessary time, the techs I'm talking about are the guys who sell systems on craigslist for example. All new good parts, also very good.
The more possibilities we can eliminate, the better. Are you overclocking your video card? Does it have onboard fan cooling? I assume yes. You've done a lot of stuff right, that really helps debugging the issues. The reboots being worse where you are now is definitely something to think about, I'd invest the $55-65 a 300 watt APC battery backup unit would cost, that is not a case of throwing good money after bad, that's buying something you should have no matter what. I think there's an office max or depot pretty close to where you live, you can just go there and pick one up. However, if power problems are the cause, and if they have already damaged some of your circuitry, getting the power unit won't fix that, it will just make it less likely to happen again in the future. If there are power drops though, that could be different, the UPS will solve that, since when the voltage drops, it feeds your system off its battery, usually that's for a split second so you wouldn't notice, but your computer definitely will notice that. I neglected to follow my own advice and this summer my old mobo became toast, bad power almost for sure killed it. Although it could have just failed, but I could see the bad power, flickering lights, stereo crackled etc. If you see any of these signs, you should pick one of those up, you don't have to install the software, just plug it in, click whatever buttons you need to make it work, then plug the computer into it, it will basically just provide a steady flow of power to your box, clean. Since you run a high end video card you might get the 350 watt version to be on the safe side, but your machine doesn't draw the wattage it says on the power supply, that's just the max watts it can deliver to your system, your system won't actually use anywhere close to that number. Also, if your outlet isn't properly grounded your box is working without a ground, which is very serious. You can get outlet grounding testers, but that's another thing to do. I run a wire from the outlet to a radiator pipe [the old kind, steam] so I know I have a real ground. Re removing the video card, if your mobo has onboard video, yes, you can remove it, you have to go into the bios though and switch back to using mobo video. Or just use a simple, basic one, anything at all will do, doesn't matter, as long as it has say 32 mB or more ram. Back to top |
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